![]() ![]() Most quality boats induce some degree of kick in the floor based upon how "fully" you inflate the tubes. Kick in the self-bailing floor is variable based on boat and degree of inflation. That lift basically induces slop that result in forgiveness. As I understand the dwelving of the question, if I lift my rigid frame high enough does that reduce the lengthwise rigidity such as that it negates the flippiness of the boat. Do any of you raft fishing guys have issues with water coming over the floor in your Outlaw rafts? I understand it is a self-bailer meant for getting wet, but I was hoping to run with a dog in the floor and he will not be happy sitting in water all day (he told me himself).Ĭlick to expand.Maybe yes, maybe no but good question. I would love your thoughts! I would hate to limit myself to class 2/3 conditions in a raft I got for versatility. However, I do intend to row some class IV sections once in a while once I learn the runs.ĭoes anyone have experience with these frames? What design modifications would you suggest if I were to pursue this build? I was thinking that if I kept the floor at the nose on a hinge where a big front hit could still flex through the raft, I could avoid many of these concerns. MOST of the time I row class 2 water and spend most of the time fishing and brainlessly hitting rapids with little to no risk. I have been building my own raft fishing frames recently and have really been toying with the idea of making a DRE Green River Drifter style frame for my Outlaw 130. ![]()
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